Capitol Peak (14,130')

Capitol Peak is regarded by many that climb it as Colorado's hardest fourteener. The mountain demands much of those who climb it. Experience is a plus, but determination and tenacity increase one's chances at success, not to mention very good weather. Any approach is long, the climb itself is equally long over countless rock obstacles above considerable exposure. Even when considering the many challenges Capitol Peak presents, it is without a doubt one of Colorado's most rewarding climbs.

Capitol Peak is located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area and is one of those peaks that says "Alpine Climbing" as soon as you lay eyes on it. This peak is one of the most recognized from the summit of neighboring peaks due in part to the classic profile. Located in the heart of the Maroon Bells-Snomass Wilderness area this majestic peak is hidden from anyone not willing to get off the road. Despite the fact that Capitol is part of the Elk Range, it has suprisingly good rock quality. This good rock allows for some of Colorado's best alpine rock climbs.

The easiest route, known as the Northeast Ridge aka "The Knife Edge", is still a class 4 scramble with more than enough exposure. It is however a very well traveled route that can be approached from three distinct trailheads. The Capitol Creek route has been the considered standard approach. A variation of the route growing in popularity is The Capitol Creek & Ditch Variation. Both routes bypass gorgeous Capitol Lake. A longer, more primitive alternative is an approach from Pierre Lakes Basin which involves many hours of scrambling on Class 3 & 4 terrain, or an approach from Moon Lakes is often used. A VERY long (and thus not popular) option from Avalanche Creek is a possibility, but this route is more suited to horses and backpacking outings. All routes however traverse the infamous Knife Edge.

The massive 1,300 foot North Face offers several technical rock routes with the most popular being the Northwest Ridge Buttress at 5.7. Do not be misled by the rating because this is still a very serious undertaking.

All routes on this mountain pose a considerable challenge to even the most experienced climbers, particularly in bad weather. Please note the mountain has been the scene of many rescues and recoveries for the Aspen Search and Rescue. Although rewarding and spectacular, Capitol is also one of Colorado's deadliest mountains.



Northeast Ridge from Capitol Lake
Difficulty: Class 4
Trailhead: Capitol Creek
Trailhead Elev.: 9,450 feet
Elevation Gain: 5,300 feet
Trip Length: 17 miles
Trail to summit: No
Stability: Some unstable rock
Exposure: 5
Crowds: Light
Fees: No
Camping: Small, designated camp spots near Capitol Lake